June 6, 1998
1. CLEAN THE VENT. The vent is cleaned with a .22 cal. brush before each shot. This insures that the vent is clear of embers primer tubes1 or dirt. Primer tubes can stick in a dirty vent causing a possible misfire or become a projectile the next shot.
2. STOP THE VENT. Nothing is put down the bore unless the vent is stopped. A leather stall or a heavy leather glove must be worn when stopping the vent. Forcing air through an unstopped vent can fan sparks, or force debris or embers into the vent.
3., WORM THE BORE. The bore is thoroughly wormed before each shot, If any debris comes out with the worm, the bore must be re-wormed. This is done to insure that no possible projectiles such as pebbles or trash are in the bore, and to remove foil debris, which could hide embers or cause a misfire.
4. WET SPONGE THE BORE: The bore is sponged thoroughly with a damp sponge to kill embers and clean the bore of powder residue, The sponge is pushed completely against the breech face, rotated three full turns, then withdrawn smartly to produce a satisfying "PUNNNNG". Make sure that the sponge is not so wet that water pools at the breech. This can dampen the powder and cause a misfire, hang fire, or leave smoldering embers. The sponge should be in good condition, fits the bore tightly, and covers the sponge head completely with no metal showing. Never allow the sponge head to touch the ground. It could pick up pebbles or other potential projectiles.
5. DRY SPONGE THE BORE: The bore is dry sponged to insure that the wet sponge does not leave water standing in the bore. Periodically, the dry sponge is mopped off with a towel.
6. LOAD POWDER: Heavy, loose leather gloves must be worn when ramming. The charge is rammed home by gripping the rammer with the right hand only, palm up, using a loose grip. DO NOT wrap the thumb around the rammer staff. When the charge is fully against the breech face, crouch against the axle and lean back from the muzzle, drop the right hand below the muzzle, and count to ten. If a spark should cause an accidental discharge it is most likely to do so within a few seconds of ramming the charge home. Charges are brought to the piece one at a time in a separate container within a leather haversack. Before the charge is introduced to the muzzle the opposite hand is placed on top of the muzzle to discharge any static electricity. Ammunition chests are opened only long enough to remove a charge and are padlocked when unattended. Only the GUNNER and CHIEF OF PIECE have keys to the ammunition chests. A safety zone circle of 25 feet radius with the ammunition chest at the center is established. No smoking is allowed within this zone.
7. LOAD PROJECTILE: If a projectile is used, it is carefully rammed so that it seats completely against the charge,
8. PICK THE CHARGE: A priming-wire is thrust down the vent to clear a path to the powder. The priming-wire is made of brass and slightly pointed. Always wear a heavy leather glove when pricking a charge. The priming-wire is dropped into the vent, failing under its own weight until stopped by the charge. This will indicate if the charge is properly seated. If the priming-wire falls all the way in, the charge is not properly seated and must be re-rammed. When the priming-wire stops on the charge, it is then gripped at the base of the ring with the thumb and forefinger and thrust into the charge. Never put a digit through the ring.
9. PRIME: The piece is primed with a cannon priming tube. Primers must be stored and transported separated from any powder. The lanyard is hooked to the primer only just prior to inserting it into the vent. This is done by grasping the primer wire, never the primer tube, and carefully inserting the hook through the loop. Primers are kept packaged in wooden blocks until needed. They are removed from the block by pulling on the tube body, never by pulling on the wire. Primers are dangerous. They contain a charge equivalent to a .22 long rifle cartridge. The crew member capturing the lanyard near the primer must do so with a gloved hand, Keep a careful inventory. Do not have more than 12 primers in a gunners pouch at a time, and never loose, always in the proper blocks. Make sure that spectators never handle live primers.
10. FIRE: Only the GUNNER can order the piece fired. The GUNNER first checks to be sure that all crew are clear of the wheels, the safety zone is clear, and all crew members are aware that the piece is ready, before giving the command to fire. When the gunner drops his hand, signaling the gun to be fired, the lanyard puller turns his face away before pulling to protect his face from the hook.
At this point the gunner commands "SECURE THE PIECE"
11, CLEAN THE VENT. The vent is cleaned with a .22 cal. brush before each shot. This insures that the vent is clear of embers, primer tubes1 or dirt. Primer tubes can stick in a dirty vent causing a possible misfire or become a projectile the next shot.
12. STOP THE VENT. Nothing is put down the bore unless the vent is stopped. A leather stall or a heavy leather glove must be worn when stopping the vent. Forcing air through an unstopped vent can fan sparks, or force debris or embers into the vent.
13., WORM THE BORE. The bore is thoroughly wormed before each shot, If any debris comes out with the worm, the bore must be re-wormed. This is done to insure that no possible projectiles such as pebbles or trash are in the bore, and to remove foil debris, which could hide embers or cause a misfire.
14. WET SPONGE THE BORE: The bore is sponged thoroughly with a damp sponge to kill embers and clean the bore of powder residue, The sponge is pushed completely against the breech face, rotated three full turns, then withdrawn smartly to produce a satisfying "PUNNNNG". Make sure that the sponge is not so wet that water pools at the breech. This can dampen the powder and cause a misfire, hang fire, or leave smoldering embers. The sponge should be in good condition, fits the bore tightly, and covers the sponge head completely with no metal showing. Never allow the sponge head to touch the ground. It could pick up pebbles or other potential projectiles.
15. DRY SPONGE THE BORE: The bore is dry sponged to insure that the wet sponge does not leave water standing in the bore. Periodically, the dry sponge is mopped off with a towel.